Today was a day full of temples and shrines. We had a free day, although I chose to accompany our guide for the first half of the day as she was going to two of the temples I wanted to visit. It was a little cooler this morning, although it rained mid-morning leaving heavy humidity behind the rain, so it felt like I was walking in a steam room all day! Very sticky and uncomfortable. We started out at Ginkakuji Temple, known as the "silver pavilion" although there is no silver on it! This temple was built in the 15th century by the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa as a retirement home. It became a Zen temple after the shogun died, and blends traditional Japanese architectural styles with Zen culture. There are several buildings in the complex linked by a beautiful garden. After we left Ginkakuji we walked what is called the Philospher's path, a stone path along a canal so named because 20th century Japanese philosopher Nishida Kitaro was known to stroll along this path engaged in his philosophical musings. It is a lovely stone path lined with trees and flowers. We got rained on as we walked it which somewhat dampened (pun intended) the experience! At the end of the path we were near to Nanzenji Temple, another important Zen temple which we visited next.
Nanzen Ji Temple, built in the 13th century as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama, and it became a Zen monastery after his death. It is still an active Zen monastery. The grounds are extensive, with subtemples and gardens to walk through. I went inside to the part of the monastery where there are many prayer rooms where Zen monks currently meditate and engage in their training. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited inside the temple buildings so I was only able to get photos of the gardens. The prayer rooms are very simple, with tatami mats on the floor and beautiful paintings on screens lining the walls. The tea room is very beautiful looking out over a waterfall and garden.
After NazenJi Temple I walked to the Chion In Temple which is a major temple for those of the Pure Land Buddhist sect. The temple and its grounds are huge, sprawling up the side of a mountain with many, many stairs. Good workout walking around there. This is a really active temple and I was able to observe a number of rituals, primarily memorial services in the main hall. This week, the holiday of Obon is when the Japanese believe that their dead ancestors return to earth for the week, so there are lots of rituals at both the Buddhist temples and the Shinto shrines around prayers for ancestors and I'm guessing that added to the busyness at Chion today. I spent some time when I first arrived in a beautiful subtemple where a monk was doing chanting and drumming. Then I went in to the main prayer hall where all the memorial services were going on. Lots of chanting, drumming, bell ringing, incense etc. Unfortunately, photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple so I could only photograph the grounds and gardens, except for one prayer chapel way up high on the hill. I spent a lot of time at Chion going over the whole complex, which includes a number of small prayer halls/chapels, a cemetery, gardens and a HUGE bell.
After I left there I walked to the Heian-Jingo Shinto Shrine which is nearby to Chion-In. It's a huge shrine built in 1895 to commemorate the founding of Kyoto. It has an extensive garden surrounding the shrine which I really enjoyed walking through. It had stone pathways and a lotus pond with rocks you could walk on to cross the pond, and small bridges. It was lovely and quiet in there, even though today the shrine complex was quite busy. You have to pay to go in the garden, so it was much less crowded and really quite serene. The Japanese are famous for their gardens and having walked a number of them this week at the various temples I can see why.
After that, I was pretty tired, having been on my feet for over 8 hours, so I took the subway back to the hotel and showered and relaxed until dinner. We had our official OAT farewell dinner at a lovely restaurant on the banks of the river in the Gion district. After supper we walked around the area for a bit to take in the nightlife and passed a Geiko on her way to work. She was in full garb, make-up and all.
Tomorrow I leave for home. I have to get a taxi to the train station where I will get a bus to the Itami Airport for my first flight, which goes from Osaka to Tokyo. From there to Chicago and then to Rochester, hopefully by late tomorrow night.